New World Winemaker Blog

“Some call her sister of the moon, Some say illusions are her game…”

Those of you who are into Fleetwood Mac (I shall give you a hint: A popular rock band which got together in the late 60’s), are probably intrigued by the familiar lyrics yet again, and those of you who are into biodynamics, probably enchanted by it.

It is a science although not regarded as one. It has many truths, although not acknowledged by too many. Some facts though, that I can put on the table, remain in my view, significant:

 1. I grew up spending time with Cousin Riaan in Chenin blanc and Shiraz vineyards, almost 20 years ago, dusting vines with sulfur no more than 3 or 4 times during season. All dry land vineyards. 30 tons per hectare. Today we might not survive if we do not put down a few systemic sprays and a couple of contact sprays. What happened? Are we not treating symptoms instead of zooming in on the reason for these symptoms? Our focus is simply on “pumping the soil” full of required elements to sustain next year’s bottom line. We spray the vine with all sorts of funny things when it shows symptoms of illnesses, disease, pests or deficiencies, instead of zooming in on the variables that cause the distress We have forgotten how to treat and respect the well being of a living entity in our quest to “push the yield”…no wonder we have such chaos in our crops.

2. I have stuck my hand into soil managed biodynamically, but almost broke my fingers trying to get into the first few millimeters of the neighbor’s.

3. Many studies confirmed significantly higher concentrations humus in biodynamically farmed soils, hence more diverse populations of soil microbes and higher concentrations of more diverse populations of microbes on the grapes.

4. I could not find mealy bug on the biodynamically farmed vines, nor those of the neighbor’s. The difference though was that the mealy bugs moved back to where it prefers to live – underground on the roots of a diverse population of plants (even though some are regarded as weeds). Luckily of course Chlorpyrifos (or by the household name Dursban) got rid of the mealy bug via ant control. Unfortunately bees are not to keen on Dursban either.

5. Lower costs of farming biodynamically have been researched and verified by many studies, despite a slightly lower yield.

6. The slightly lower yield justifies itself in better quality grapes and wine. Higher phenolic concentrations, smaller berries and slightly lighter clusters.

7. “Better” wines? I have my personal convictions when it comes to this “sensitive”, abstract term.

My personal conviction on Biodynamics is that scientists and critics do not need to ask whether BD can be regarded as a scientific category or even point out that part of the scientific community looks at it with skepticism and marks it as dogmatic. There are over 4200 farms around the world that are certified as BD, the numbers are increasing, so it is clearly worthy of more respect and attention that it currently enjoys.

Biodynamics make sense to me because I simply believe in things I experience with my God-given senses.

 I suppose I will be outlawed as a “winemaker with a scientific approach”, just the way I was (still am I suppose), outlawed as a traditional winemaker, because I produced a “non-typical” Coffee Pinotage style. Whatever typical or traditional may mean…

Bertus Fourie is a winemaker, turned Enology lecturer and creator of the Barista coffee Pinotage.

It’s happened to the best of us and, unfortunately, we all know the feeling: Waking up the next morning, feeling like death warmed up and swearing you’ll never drink again. But what exactly is a hangover and what in wine causes hangovers?

For those who don’t know, common features of hangovers include headaches, nausea, fatigue, dehydration and weakness, even mild depression. I must admit I didn’t realize hangovers are that complex until I started to research them. It gets a little technical, I know, but hang in there – it’s pretty interesting!

The most common cause of a wine hangover is dehydration. Alcohol causes the body to lose water through a complex pathway, resulting in the brain temporarily shrinking. This puts the membranes under strain, causing a headache. This goes hand in hand with a very dry mouth. Furthermore, alcohol causes glycogen (your medium-term energy store) to be converted into glucose and excreted along with salts and minerals, causing you to feel tired the next day. Are you ready to open the next bottle of Chenin yet?

Another major cause of hangovers is biogenic amines, specifically histamine, a chemical we usually associate with allergic reactions. Almost all alcoholic beverages contain some histamine, especially red wine, as it is made from whole grapes. Some people are more sensitive to histamine than others, which can lead to allergic reactions. Symptoms may vary from rosy cheeks to bad headaches. This has nothing to do with the vast amount of wine they knocked back the previous night, of course… There are quite a few factors that can influence the histamine content of wine, and most of them are related to the microbial health of the wine. So, it is very possible that the red wine from one producer will be fine while the same variety from another producer will give you a splitting headache.

And then there is acetaldehyde, which is a by-product of the liver breaking down alcohol. The body can break down small quantities of acetaldehyde, but it cannot metabolize large quantities acetaldehyde, which adds to your hangover. Interesting to note here is that acetaldehyde is closely related to formaldehyde, the preservative that scientists use to store dodgy organs in jars. That really makes you reach out to your wine rack, doesn’t it?

Next is a group of molecules called congeners, which is commonly found in dark-colored drinks like red wine, brandy and whiskey. Very little is known about this chemical group, but apparently it is not very good for us, hence the hangovers.

Interestingly, in my research for this article, I found no mention of sulfur – one of the most popular culprits on which hangovers are pinned. Now you know what happens on the odd occasion when you lose the plot. Having said that, I still believe that moderate wine consumption will definitely add quality to your life and health. Cheers!

Boela Gerber is the winemaker of Groot Constantia wine estate in South Africa. This blog was originally published on www.conca.co.za.

“Experience enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.”
– Bob Steinhauer-former Director of Vineyard Operations,  Beringer Vineyards, CA

The kaleidoscope of viticultural and enological choices winegrowers must make reminds us of the complexity of our industry and how rapidly our philosophy and practices have changed as new knowledge is acquired.

To move forward, not laterally, from one vintage to the next, we need to keep Ray Koch’s famous remark in mind, perhaps with a slight modification: “You cannot manage (understand) if you cannot measure.” Our challenges, therefore, in crafting fine wines, include the understanding of the following:

Environmental factors, vineyard management and fruit chemistry

Fruit chemistry and wine chemistry

Wine chemistry and sensory properties

To some, this mechanistic approach may appear to be contra natura, against their philosophical nature and against artistic winemaking. However, a resolution of the above relationships goes to a core belief – that luck is the residue of design. As John Fowles stated, “For what good science tries to eliminate, good art seeks to provoke – mystery, which is lethal to the one, and vital to the other.” However, art and science are supplementary. That understanding will allow us to follow an important mantra: keep things as simple as possible, but not simpler.

In order to optimally use both science and art, we must understand the difference between empirical or observational knowledge, and science-based knowledge. We must know the limits and merits of each.  Empirical knowledge is sometimes faulty, because what may apply to one circumstance may not to another. The question is one of relativism.  What information is universal, and what information is specific to time, place and circumstance?

As an industry, the distinction between science-based and empirical knowledge is sometimes blurred. What works at one vineyard site certainly may not work at another. We know this intellectually, but sometimes fail to keep this in mind. Another problem with relying solely on empirical observations is that, if two outcomes are similar, we have a tendency to assume they must have a similar cause. This may or may not be correct.

One of the steps that can aid in understanding the relative merits empirical and science-based information is to develop a HACCP plan. HACCP or hazard analysis critical control points, is a system for assuring product quality control from beginning to end, through the identification and monitoring of the critical control points (CCPs) during processing.

Dr Bruce Zoecklein is a Professor Emeritus, Enology-Grape Chemistry Group Virginia Tech.

His Enology Notes are available at www.vtwines.info.

Winston Churchill once noted that: “Any man who is under 30, and is not a liberal, has no heart; and any man who is over 30, and is not a conservative, has no brains.”

Nelson Mandela, in his book, Long Walk to Freedom, also stated that it is natural for people to become more conservative with age – unfortunately I don’t have the exact quote here, but that was the gist of it.

When it comes to being outspoken, it is most often the youth who are in a league of their own.  Extolling their own virtues is undertaken liberally and forthrightly and hearing their messages is easy, as they are shouted out rather than hinted at.

Quite often (unfortunately not always) the messages being shouted by the “upstarts” contain many truths, have been well thought through and are conveyed with the best intentions rather than with diplomacy.

As time goes by, many lessons are learned and more conservative approaches follow in conveying these messages. Loudhailers and street corners are exchanged for notepads and Boardrooms; engagement is preferred to statement and the importance of unity supersedes the egos of individuals. At this stage, the voices are softer, subdued and more intelligible and the messages, while often inherently similar, conveyed more subtly and convincingly.

While the two Gentlemen quoted above were obviously referring to more political conservatism than to the stages in the life of a wine, both ring very true when it comes to wine.

While young wines often tend to jump out of the glass at you with their vibrance and overt enthusiasm, older ones tend to be much more restrained, less obvious and thus a lot more complex.

Perhaps I’m just getting older myself, but I must admit that, whether I’m listening to politicians or enjoying a glass of wine, I much prefer being spoken to than being shouted at!

Guy Webber is the winemaker of Hill & Dale Wines, Stellenbosch South Africa. This blog was first published on their website 24 August 2011.