New World Winemaker Blog

“Large egg-shaped vessels have been appearing in increasing numbers at high end wineries on the West Coast, stirring a mixture of bafflement, warm, return-to-the-womb associations and fears of an alien invasion…” Field Maloney, Wine & Spirits, February 2009

Very funny intro. Alien invasion is exactly what describes the image that went through my head when I saw these egg shaped tanks for the first time. I immediately thought of the 1993 movie: Coneheads, hence the image.  From the moment I saw a picture of these tanks – and I must embarrassingly admit it was only last year – I have wanted to investigate this amusing (to me) new movement in winemaking. It looks rather funny in a cellar. It looks like a giant hatchery where large prehistoric flying reptiles are about to emerge from any second.

The tanks are made from concrete and they are in an egg shape. Why the concrete? Well apparently concrete allows for a micro oxygenation effect on the wine like barrels do, except without adding wood flavors. Why the egg shape? It apparently creates a vortex in the wine and allows for lees to stay in suspension so stirring is not necessary. Lees in suspension has various advantages, hence the practice of batonnage.

The mastermind behind these tanks is Marc Nomblot who on request of biodynamics winemaker, Michel Chapoutier, built the first one in 2001. This caught on quickly and to use the the description of Jeffrey Iverson, these egg shaped tanks are now “hatching in wineries all over the world.”

I recently visited the hatchery of Boekenhoutskloof winery in Franschhoek, South Africa (yes the eggs have reached the southern tip of Africa). They ferment Grenache blanc in their eggs. They start fermentation in stainless steel tanks on skins, so no settling, and press anywhere from 25 – 50% into the fermentation. The must is then pumped with all its lees into the eggs. Fermentation is conducted at 16 – 18°C; they use a coil for cooling (Franschhoek is a tad warmer than the Rhône). The coil only goes into the egg for about an hour at a time. These concrete eggs are great insulators, compared to stainless steel that is conductive. Fermentation is about seven to ten days with Lalvin ICV-GRE yeast (Lallemand). After fermentation the wine stays in the eggs for 10 months. To the winemaker the biggest attribute from using the eggs is the incredible mouthfeel one can obtain this way.  This Grenache blanc forms part of of a white blend called Wolftrap white. Even though Boekenhoutskloof is not a biodynamic winery they do embrace some of the principles, such as these egg tanks, and plan to expand their hatchery on an ongoing basis. They have also started to expand the usage to other grape varieties.

So certainly with “biodynamic”, “natural” and “non-interventionist” winemaking being the buzz words at the moment, I reckon these eggs are here to stay for a while. Personally I believe in interventionist winemaking, but here is a concept that even makes sense to me. I’m just not so sure about racking during certain moon cycles though. ..

Boekenhoutskloof winemaker Jean Smit and some of their eggs.

Karien O’Kennedy is the Online Communications Manager for Oenobrands and knows the odd thing or two about fermentation and winemaking.

If you gaze upon these images for a few moments (some might need more time), you will notice a few things. Most significant is that things tend to not only get more colorful towards the end, but also more revealing. Those of you who aren’t too thrilled by the images above might wonder what scantily clad damsels have to do with the evolution of wine technology. Best you read on then.

During an ancient and alcohol fueled conversation, a chef expressed his discontent at the notion of wine research. His bottom line was that you cannot drink research. After a few moments of thought (which was remarkably difficult at that time), I pointed out the obvious improvement of wine during the past 100 years. Also the availability of science and technology allowing for the abundance of excellent wines which are currently available. Just like the evolution of the bikini, science allows you to make things more revealing. To strip things down to the basics and to fulfill a very important need…

Alcoholic fermentation by yeast is a natural and beautiful thing. One might even call it a simple process. Nonetheless, this seemingly simple process is governed by hundreds of thousands of elements, chemicals, enzymes and micro-organisms. Louis Pasteur, often called the father of microbiology, paved the way for the identification, enumeration and understanding of all micro-organisms. His humble beginnings in the early 1860’s allowed him to conclude that micro-organism can lead to wine, beer and milk spoilage. Back then, all germs were seen as the enemy. Who would have thought that more than 150 years later, we add specific yeast and bacterial cultures to wine in order to make better wines.  You can practically get a wine yeast for any grape variety, winemaking condition and style that you desire. In 1953, James D. Watson and Francis Crick suggested the first correct double-helix model of DNA structure, which with ongoing research and refinement allowed us to study yeast genes and this helped us with the continuing selection and improvement of yeast strains for specific new world winemaking conditions.

Enzymes have also come a long way since their discovery in 1833 by Payen and Persoz, who treated an aqueous extract of malt with ethanol and precipitated a heat-labile substance which promoted the hydrolysis of starch. Nowadays, it is hard to imagine any commercial winery without the use of all the different enzymes. Not only do enzymes improve wine quality, but they also make life easier for the winemaker. For example, a settling AND skin contact enzyme like Rapidase Expression (Oenobrands) allows for a single addition at crushing of white grapes. Not only is varietal character enhanced, but more than ample enzyme activity remains after pressing in the settling tank.

Remarkable advances have also been made in cellar and wine treatment machinery. This is not surprising, seeing that our club wielding, cave-dwelling  ancestors already tried their hand (or should I rather say claw) at winemaking back in the spry 4000 BC’s. The oldest known winery is located in the “Areni-1″ cave in the Vayots Dzor Province of Armenia.  This winery, which is over six thousand years old, contains a wine press, fermentation vats, jars, and cups. Archaeologists also found grape seeds and vines of the species Vitis vinifera. Gravity was all the rage before pumps were designed, but there is a refreshing new push towards using gravity again in modern cellars.

Wine treatment was also not left behind. Where in the past, winemakers had to deal inventively with maladies such as high alcohol, volatile acidity, Brettanomyces-taint etc., the advent of reverse osmosis and spinning cones offers cost effective solutions.

Sir Francis Bacon said in 1597: “Knowledge is power.” Science allows humans to empower themselves. And to feel smarter. If you don’t believe this, just think of how smart you usually are after a few glasses of wine…

Bernard Mocke is a technical consultant for Oenobrands.

OENOTOOLS is the latest smartphone and tablet application to help winemakers make essential calculations during wine production.

This free application developed by OENOBRANDS contains the most widely used calculation and conversion tools required in the winery. The development of this application is in line with Oenobrands’ strategy of offering winemakers innovative, advanced winemaking solutions.

The first version of OENOTOOLS allows the winemaker to:

-Calculate the quantity of any powder, liquid or gas additive to add to a tank. For instance, OENOTOOLS will determine the amount of gum arabic, enzymes, tannins or any fining agent to add to a tank from a powder or liquid source.

-Determine the amount of sulfite to add according to the winemaker’s selected source (various concentrations or gas) to reach a set total, free and/or active SO₂target.

-Convert the common measuring units used for grape juice and wine: for example, liters into gallons, brix into sugar concentration, etc.

-Establish the conditions and flow rate for deoxygenation and decarbonization using nitrogen stripping.

The OENOTOOLS app provides a range of quick and accurate winemaking calculation tools in four languages: English, Spanish, French and Italian.

Get the OENOTOOLS App from the Apple iTunes App Store and Android Market by scanning the QR code below on your iPhone or Android device.

Dr. Patrice Pellerin is the Technical Manager for Oenobrands.

“Don’t make a big monkey dance about choosing a yeast, just decide if you want esters or thiols!” This is one of the more memorable sentences that was uttered by Christoph Hammel during my recent harvest stint at his cellar in Germany. Before I put this sentence into context, I should mention that the Hammel Weingut has been in business since 1723. This proud winemaking tradition is continued by veteran and outspoken winemaker, Christoph Hammel. His skills include a combination of modern thinking, creative planning and solid experience based on many years of making wine with a scientific yet artistic touch.

Christoph is such a staunch believer in Anchor Wine Yeast, I guess that you could even call him an Anchorfile. He has repeatedly achieved success on a variety of grape varieties such as Grüner veltliner (fermented with Anchor Exotics and Anchor Alchemy I), Scheurebe (Anchor Alchemy II), Sauvignon blanc (Anchor Alchemy II), Dornfelder + Portugieser Rosé (Anchor Alchemy I and II), Müller-Thurgau (Anchor Alchemy I), Chardonnay + Weissburgunder (Anchor Alchemy I) and Sylvaner (Anchor VIN 2000), Riesling (Anchor VIN 13 and Anchor Exotics). Of special interest will be some the combinations of yeasts that Christoph likes to co-inoculate, such as VIN 13/NT 116 (also Anchor) and VIN 13/NT 116 together with Laffort X5. I have seen that these combinations have a massive effect on floral, fruity and tropical aromas, but no negative effect on fermentation kinetics.

Alex Halberstadt has the following to say about Sylvaner: “Nobody dreams about Sylvaner. Mentioning it in a group of wine people is akin to professing an interest in the finer points of cardboard fabrication. The grape bums people out.”

However, even a neutral grape variety such as Sylvaner stands to gain from these mixtures. For example, I inoculated Sylvaner with NT 116/VIN 7/X5 (as per Christoph’s instructions). Some of the tasting notes that I made over the course of the fermentation were: “tea leaf, fig, apple, floral, banana, grapefruit, spicy, curry, herbal, white pepper, grapefruit, and apricot”. In theory a more complex wine is possible because of the ester and thiol production of these yeasts and this is exactly what you’ll get in real life!

Something else that Christoph does, is oxygenation of the must and water mixture during yeast rehydration. In the photo below, you’ll see the white bin in which yeast is rehydrated and behind the bin you’ll see an oxygen tank.

Typically, the rehydration mixture is cooled down at 5ºC increments (with ample time intervals) until a temperature difference of approximately 5ºC is observed between the rehydration mixture and the must to be inoculated. Note that during all this, the rehydration mixture is continuously oxygenated by adding a steady trickle of oxygen. The rehydrated and happy yeast is then simply pumped to the tank in question. Christoph swears by this method and cannot remember the last time he suffered a stuck ferment. For more information on the science behind this, you are welcome to read my previous blog titled: “Is your yeast on sterols?”

More to follow…

Bernard Mocke is a technical consultant for Oenobrands.